The Rosengarten Peak - Normal route

A very famous mounteneering peak in the Dolomites (the first ascent was in 1874), and very busy during the summer season. The normal route goes on very good rock, some parts are quite greasy, but equipped and safe.

If it’s too busy, we suggest you the less popular Ampferer-Berger route (400m, II/III grade) which takes place from the Vajolet towers valley. It’s quite easy with fantastic views above the Valley but not equipped.

The ascent to the Rosengarten Peak is very amusing and it’s usually a good place for beginners provided they have the basics of climbing.

The approach to the top can be done from the Nigra Pass with the Re Laurino chairlift and walking the via ferrata Santner pass in about 1,5 hours. The other way up is to walk from the Gardeccia hut to the Vajolet and Preuss huts in an hour following the path no. 546. From here path no. 542 takes to Re Alberto 1° hut first and than, in fifteen minutes to Santner Pass.

Leaving the small shelter now closed behind, a short scree leads to the start of the normal route.

The first shot is perhaps the most difficult of the route, because we are still cold and the rock is a bit greasy. The next four shots are really beautiful, though in the shadow.

Reaching the ridge, the gaze goes immediately on the opposite side, leaving us speechless. The rides on the ridge, never particularly challenging and always on excellent rock, are fast, though the altitude almost reaches 3000m.

In no time you reach the spectacular peak.

The initial part of the descent reverses the same way and roping up is recommended. Descend the north ridge with some sections of down-climbing for approximately 250m to reach a prominent saddle and a cemented abseil ring. Make a 40m abseil down the west-facing chimney to its narrowest point and a comfortable stance. Make a second 45m abseil to a small ledge and a niche on the right. A third abseil of 20m leads to the scree above the Santner Pass. From here continue easily on path no. 542 to reach Re Alberto 1° hut then continue down the steep, unpleasant and busy switchbacks to return to Vajolet hut.

Difficulty: II - III, the first pitch III+

Height difference: 180m to the ledge, 190m along the summit ridge

Climbing route: 344m

Rope-lengths: 5 + 55m with “short rope”

Hours: 30 minutes from the hut to the starting point; 2 hours to the summit

Rock: excellent

Gear: normal climbing equipment