PORTE NEIGRE - Climbing “Via Vuoto d’Aria”

Catinaccio Mountain Refuges

Hut that proposes this tour:
Preuss refuge
List of refuges on the route:
Gardeccia refuge
Vajolet refuge
Preuss refuge
Stella Alpina Spiz Piaz refuge
Characteristics of the route:

2,00 ore
140 m
120 m

Porte Neigre, at first glance, is a somewhat unispiring Cliff, especially when one considers the scale and grandeur of the surrounding peaks.

However, together with “Via del Rifugio” they are well Worth seeking out, particularly for those looking for something a bit more relaxing in a otherwise harsh environment.

It’s an excellent little route that culminates in an atmospheric fixed tyrolean traverse between the 3rd and the 4th pitches. 

Descend from Preuss or Vajolet Hut for 15 minutes, than turn left towards the small stream. Start close to the stream on its left side in a small clearing by the face lowest point, just behind a detached boulder.

From Gardeccia or Stella Alpina huts, follow path 7 signed to “rifugio Preuss and Vajolet” for 20 minutes. JUst before the track bends sharply left and starts ascending more steeply, Porte Neigre can clearly be seen in front. Leave the path here following the stream to the base of the crag.

I shoot - 30 meters, difficulty 4b

From the start it moves on jagged stone and full of hooves up to an outstanding boulder that leads on a comfortable stance.

II shot - 30 meters, difficulty 4c

From the terrace the route bends right to the vertical wall. It is the most challenging road shooting, and leads to a very exposed and aerial stop right on the right edge of the wall (if possible try to avoid traffic jams since the space is low).

III shot - 25 meters, difficulty 5a

The road differs from the edge and bends slightly to the left. It is the natural continuation of the wall that starts from the first stop and rises up to a groove where the last passage is a narrow gap between two overhanging boulders. There is a piece of rope to help, since a fall would lead straight down to the terrace.

Once you pass this passage you are on the comfortable top of the tower.

The parking rings are fixed to the ground.

IV shot - 35 meters, difficulty 3a

Exiting the top of the tower, on its left, there is the "Tyrolean bridge”. Its length of a few meters, covers the space between the tower and the rest of the block on which the two shelters Vajolet and Preuß stand. Once the bridge is over, it continues on friable rocks and weaved by grassy parts. In this section, pitons are not always obvious.

The stop is fixed to the last block of stone, beyond which you are near the cross and about fifty meters from the shelters.

Additional notes: fun and enjoyable route, especially in the II and III shots. There is no particular difficulty, but it is not trivial. Well protected by pitons no more than three meters away from each other and with good stone almost everywhere, except on the last shot.

Required material: 10 quickdraws, lanyards, clamps and carabiners to equip the stops.


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