VAJOLET TOWERS - Torre Delago, sothwest Piaz Arete

Catinaccio Mountain Refuges

Hut that proposes this tour:
Re Alberto I - Gartlhuette refuge
Characteristics of the route:


3,00 ore
140 m
130 m
2790 s.l.m.
Description

The Vajolet towers are one of the most famous rock formation in the Dolomites and have become an iconic symbol for climbing in the region. The true cause for their fame becomes immediately apparent when first stepping on to the arete of the classic Piaz Arete/Delagokante. The ground suddenly plunges down some 500m to the valley bottom giving astonishing exposure. This makes it one of the most celebrated climbs in the area and a rite of passage for many visiting the Dolomites. During high season it is not uncommon for every stance of the Piaz Arete to be occupied! Thus an early start (from the rifugio if possible) is highly recommended.

From the Re Alberto hut follow the well-worn pathtowards the towers to reach a ledge. Follow stepped rock (II) right then below the gully between Torres Delago and Stabeler, move left to reach a long ledge where the route begins.

Piaz Arete proceeds quite clearly, zigzagging along its thread, sometimes holding a little more inside, others exposing outside.

The first vertical shot of IV+ goes on juggy holds keeping just right to the arete, then at a peg move left to reach the arete proper. Follow this with the first taste of exposure to a ledge on the right.

The second shot, now with superb exposure, skate up the polish to another ledge on the right.

The third shot goes back onto the arete for a a few metres then enter a short corner on the right wall to reach a stance on the left.

The forth shot follow a flake right, climb a pale slab direct then move back left towards the arete again. 

The route ends following an easy rock right to the crowded summit.

The descent goes from the east edge of the summit, make a 40m abseil to the notch between Torres Delago and Stabeler. From here, make a further two abseils (40m and 45m) to the base of the gully and discend this back to the first ledge. Descend easily on the path to the Re Alberto refuge. There are intercediate abseil stations making it possible to split the abseils if desired.

Difficulty: IV, one passage IV+

Height difference: 130m

Climbing route: 156m

Rope-lengths: 4

Hours: 10 minutes from the hut to the starting point; 2,30 hours to the summit

Rock: excellent

Gears: normal climbing equipment and the use of magnesium is recommended, as it's an air climbing on polished rock where some features are required.

Note: the “Delagokante” is one of the most celebrated of all alpine climbs! Really pleasant ascent, too bad it ends too soon! Good rock holds but rather smoothed by the passage. Crowded on weekends. 

 




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