Via ferrata Maximilian 'Denti di Terrarossa'

Catinaccio Mountain Refuges

Hut that proposes this tour:
Alpe di Tires refuge
List of refuges on the route:
Schlernhaus - Bolzano refuge
Characteristics of the route:

6,45 ore
1030 m
2653 s.l.m.

A trail of the path behind the shelter, soon leads to the beginning of the path that initially is characterized by some unequipped rocks.

Soon comes the cable that crosses initially to the right in the direction of a landslide channel where it is necessary to overcome some boulders literally embedded in it. On the right, you reach the equipped part with some metal handles, whereas subsequently, the cable facilitates reaching the upper part of the channel represented by a panoramic fork.

In this initial stretch, the rock is very appealing, inviting to a progression in fun climbing.

The channel, instead, very landslide is to be traveled with caution in order not to cause dangerous falls of detrital material.

You move on the left wall and you exit the canal and in the full wall where there are some rocky jumps, thus gaining the ridge.

This first part of the ridge -Dente di Terrarossa- is quite easy as it involves walking along a path at a height up to a characteristic arch in the rock beyond which begins a vertical stretch of about ten meters which, due to its characteristics climbing, it would certainly be better to be able to overcome climbing.

Carefully disengage it by reaching again the ridge line along which you will find sections of the exposed path alternating with short, unequipped rocky jumps that require a lot of attention as the exposure is quite strong; you reach a boulder stuck in a crack to be overcome in descent with the help of a lanyard.

You return to the ridge along a long path leading to the top of a small wall to be descended with great caution and then at some exposed subcresta rocks also delicate for exposure and friability.

However, you arrive at a sign indicating a possible possibility of abandoning our path going down to the left along a steep canal and returning to path no. 4 which connects the Tires refuge to the Bolzano refuge.

Continuing instead towards the top, you can easily overcome an inclined plate to rediscover the metal cable that obliquely leads to a ledge that serves as a link for a series of simple and less exposed rocky jumps of the previous except a more delicate passage as it overcomes a sharp ridge thread. The last cables of the equipped path help to overcome a rather leaned edge thus arriving to the plate that indicates the other end of the road while to reach the summit it is necessary to continue for a few minutes a path on the ridge - 2655 m.


From the top for an easy path with little stone in about 10 minutes, you reach the junction with the very popular path that connects the two refuges of the plateau. To return to the Alpe di Siusi, continue towards the Bolzano refuge; just before it, turn right onto the tourist trail that will take you back to the Alp in less than two hours.


The equipped part of the via ferrata does not present great technical difficulties apart from the downhill section from the Dente di Terrarossa (more challenging but short). The exposure along the "thin" unequipped ridge, at times is remarkable. Sometimes you have the feeling that it is equipped where there is no need or no where it would be more logical. It could be useful to evaluate the possibility of going along the ridge in the opposite direction so as to find some equipped passages and some free ascents.

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